A Traditional Farm Life - "Bear Sign" Buttermilk Doughnuts

A Traditional Farm Life - "Bear Sign" Buttermilk Doughnuts

By Shasta Hamilton

Greetings from Enterprise, dear friends!  Our town’s new Grist Mill has bones and skin, but unfortunately it doesn’t have a head on its shoulders!

Turnout was great last Saturday morning for the mill’s “barn raising.”  The girls and I took a break from preparing the crew’s lunch to walk down the block that beautiful morning, and were rewarded with an awe-inspiring sight.  Just as we came to the corner with the site within view, the first 32-foot wall was “walked” up into place by a large group of men.  It is always amazing to see how something that would be impossible for one or two is relatively easy for a group of folks with a goal in mind.

Work progressed well that day—the four framed walls were put up and were in the process of being “skinned,” but there was, and still is, much to be done to make the dream a reality.  The amount of behind-the-scenes planning that goes into such an endeavor is incredible.  Joe Minick has spent a lot of time and effort putting the plans in order and coordinating the building old-fashioned building “bees” that have got the project on its way.

Work on the mill did not begin last Saturday, of course.  Men were on site the week before, cutting wood so the walls could be quickly framed, as well as other preparatory work. 

Work has continued since Saturday.  Both stories are now skinned and doors and some of the windows have been installed.  Although work has on hold for the time being, by the time you read this, trusses will probably be installed in preparation for putting on the roof.

As a lover of history and a resident of this fine city, it’s exciting to see the Hoffman Mill rising again.  It’s been encouraging to see folks from our community coming together to see this nod to Enterprise’s founding fathers become a reality.  Our family is honored to be able to contribute our boy’s time to help with construction and have been delighted to feed hungry crews of workers as needed.

In the spirit of the community “work bees” of days gone by, the girls and I whipped up a batch of buttermilk doughnuts this morning.  The crew we were feeding was limited to a bunch of hungry Hamilton’s--and perhaps that’s all right, because there would not have been enough left to feed the construction crew.

Buttermilk doughnuts would have been a familiar treat when the original Hoffman Mill was founded.  The following recipe was handed down to the King Arthur Flour Company from a farmwife in Wisconsin, and was believed to be over one hundred years old.  We’ve made it several times over the years to the delight of the children.

Made the way I’ve revised the recipe, it resembles a cowboy treat we’ve read about called “bear sign.”  Bear sign was the cowboy term for doughnuts made out on the range for hungry cowhands by the dishpan full, and from my research I’ve learned the cook who made them was highly regarded. 

They were not particularly difficult to make in my home kitchen, but I can only imagine how difficult it would be to whip these treats up for the boys on the range from the tailgate of the chuck wagon. 

Though I won’t be traveling down the Chisholm Trail next week with a chuck wagon ready to feed my hungry boys, I will be in the kitchen preparing pies and other goodies for the Thanksgiving holiday.  Please note:  The Buggy Stop will be closed November 25-28.

“Bear Sign” Buttermilk Doughnuts

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in

            1 cup buttermilk

3 tablespoons butter, melted

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

about 4 cups all-purpose flour (enough to hold a spoon upright)

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

6 cups (3 lbs.) lard or vegetable

shortening, for frying

confectioner’s sugar

1.  In medium bowl, beat together the sugar and eggs until smooth.  Beat in the baking soda/buttermilk, butter, and vanilla.  Add baking powder, flour, and nutmeg, stirring until well combined.  Dough will be sticky, but should be stiff enough to hold a spoon upright.

 

2.   Place dough on a well-floured surface, sprinkle flour on top and roll 1/4 inch thick.  (Dough may be divided in half for easier handling.)  Cut dough with a 2 to 2-1/2 inch biscuit cutter or rim of a large drinking glass.  (Dough can also be cut into traditional doughnut shapes.)

3.  In a large, deep kettle, melt the lard or shortening and heat to 375 degrees.  Carefully slip doughnuts into oil and fry 1-1/2 to 2 minutes per side or until golden brown.  Remove and drain on paper towels; cool slightly.  Put confectioner’s sugar in a paper bag, add a couple donuts at a time, and shake to coat.  Excellent served warm with a cup of coffee strong enough to float a horse shoe in.  

Yield: 1 dishpan of doughnuts.

Copyright © 2015 by Shasta Hamilton

Shasta is a fifth generation rural Kansan now residing in Enterprise, Kansas.  She and her husband own and operate The Buggy Stop Home-Style Kitchen with their six home-schooled children.  You can reach The Buggy Stop by calling (785) 200-6385 or visit them on the web at www.thebuggystoprestaurant.com.